Mummy Milli

Two and a half weeks with a two and a half year old, sleeping in our Estima (Tarago) Camper! How was it? What would I do differently? and of course, how much was it?

Yes you read that right, my husband, toddler and I (5 months pregnant) slept in our small mini van for two weeks and still love each other afterwards.

The route was, in very general terms, start north across the Grampians to the Yarra Ranges, returning from the south along the Great Ocean Road and along the coast of South Australia (SA). We wanted to take it slow but there is always a long drive to get out of SA and my partner and I just wanted to get over the boarder so we did so a couple of 5 hour drive days.

Quick Price breakdown :

Accommodation : $614

Petrol : $684

Activities : $398

Food & Drink : $1423

Total: $3,119 = $183.48 per night

Budget $3,000

Adelaide – Grampians (Smiths Mill Campsite – $15.60 per night)

499 kms – 5 hours 35 mins plus stops

As a child my family would do long road trips regularly and with three small children in the car. My parents would normally start the driving (on our long travel days) at 5am to try and get a few hours of peace before the children would wake up. This worked out great for my parents and I wanted to do the same as I wasn’t sure how Monkey would go for 5 and a half hours in the car. So we were up at 4am, packing the last few items in the car and we surprisingly managed to leave by 5am.

I personally thought this was great as we made it to our first stop, Keith, just as Monkey was waking up, Hubby got some sleep too as I drove. My Partner on the other hand reflected that this made the beginning of the trip feel rushed, he was also still sick but we didn’t know it so that probably impacted these feelings. If you are going to try out this method talk with your partner and don’t forget you can always change your plans.

While the playground in Keith is mainly why we stopped there, it might be worth skipping it and heading to Bordertown. My partner and I were very disappointed with the food we ate in Keith, so next time we would push through to the next town.

We stopped through the Grampians for two nights as we knew there would be lots to see and we also wanted a break after driving for so long. Being able to walk to Makenzie Falls from the Smiths Mill Campsite was a highlight along with our stop at Lake Bellfield. There is something so special about throwing rocks into a large body of water.

Tip: pick your podcasts well if you are leaving before the sunrises as I was listening to Janet Lansbury’s : Unruffled and her calming voice almost put me to sleep!

The Grampians to Marysville via Wallan (Andersons Mill – free camp)

397kms – 5 hours 11mins

This was our last long drive day till the end of the trip, and it had to be timed as we met Hubby’s brother in Ballarat for lunch. I would absolutely suggest Lake Wendouree Adventure playground, as an awesome and large playground sandwiched between a lovely lake and the Ballarat Botanical Garden. This gave Monkey a great chance to run around and wear himself out along with being perfect for a picnic.

We made a conscious choice to drive for longer and not head into the outskirts of Melbourne. We stayed fairly north, heading instead through Wallan, which consisted of many lovely pastures with forested areas and we enjoyed the drive a lot more. Monkey was content in the back with a bunch of board books which we rotated every few days so that he would have new things to look at, along with a small etch-a-sketch so he could still do some drawing (see also Tips for Road Trips with a Toddler)

Do yourself a favour, if you are anywhere in the area, drive to Marysville from Healesville. We found this drive to be the most stunning out of all the drives we did on this trip. Yes, the Great Ocean Road was gorgeous but my partner and I love the mountains and lush forests. This drive has 60 – 70 meter tall Mountain Ash trees with 15 meter Tree ferns right up against the road.

There is also a pie shop worth visiting called Marysville Gourmet Pies, Hubby was trying to find a way to get back there for the next few days but it didn’t work out. There are so many choices at this Asian fusion pie store, I got a more traditional mushroom, chicken and bacon, Hubby got the Korean beef and Monkey got a sausage roll. All tasted great with awesome pastry, although be warned the Korean Beef had a bit of a kick to it.

Anderson Mill to Upper Yarra Reservoir Reserve ($15.60 per night – 3 nights)

67km – 1 hour 16mins

The Yarra Ranges and this campsite were one of the highlights of our trip. Three nights in one spot is not something we often do but was very worthwhile in this spot. This campsite reminded both of us of the Canadian National Park campsites we would frequent while we were there. Very big open space, large old trees (some oaks and pines) and well serviced with, flushing toilets, benches and campfires.

I was looking for dramatic lush drives to do on our trip and I came cross the Marysville Woods Point road, between Marysville and The Upper Yarra Reservoir. It looked full of ferns and with quite a few waterfalls we could stop at and get out for walks. The day we drove through Marysville a car race was on, and it was on that exact stretch of road, plans changed and we ended up driving the Archeron way. It has the large Mountain Ash trees dwarfing the giant Tree Ferns, it felt like another world.

TarraWarra Museum of Art was a stunning enough building to visit on its own however there is a museum and winery attached. The museum was temporarily closed however we decided the winery, views and building were worth it. And we were right. It is free to visit the site but it was lovely sitting under the pepper trees overlooking the pond with mountain ranges reaching off into the distance.

Our last day in the area was spent on the Puffing Billy. A train that runs out of Belgrave where the main feature is that anyone, over the age of four, can sit on the window sill of the train and dangle their legs out as it drives. This was a cool feature and definitely felt surreal.

While we all really enjoyed the train ride there are a couple of things I would do differently next time, for example I wouldn’t order scones. I loved the idea that on the way back we would get served scones on the train, but this was not the case. The train has no tables (in any cart) and so the scones are served at a big diner at the Emerald Lake stop.

Upper Yarra Reservoir to Kirth Kiln Scout Loop (Free Campsite – 1 Night)

52kms – 54 mins

We headed to the Kallista Tea Rooms, another highlight of our trip. We noticed it, the day before on our drive to the Puffing Billy and were intrigued by a Tea House. It was perched on an acute triangle corner with that edge of the building rounded and full of windows, it gave off traditional American diner vibes on the outside whereas the inside remind me of the classic, romantic train cars.

Since we had been camping, we made a lot of our own meals and although most of them were healthy (think Quinoa Salads and Falafel wraps for lunch) I was sure craving something a bit different. Monkey eats a lot for a two and a half year old but my meal of the roast veggie stack with an added hash brown was plenty for the two of us.

With the weather having turned and the night looking wet and windy, Kirth Kiln Scout Loop was a bit daunting, there was lots of tree cover from eucalypts and gums. We definitely took extra time driving around trying to find the campsite with the least tree coverage, however luckily for us the wind died down overnight.

Kirth Kiln to Ocean Grove (Stayed with parents – free – 2 nights)

168kms – 2 hours 24 mins

In the morning we got straight into our seats and drove down to the kiln to have breakfast. With Monkey, breakfast is the top priority and we have to move fast or we get breakdowns, it was a short drive so he was fine and he loved exploring the old Kiln and machinery they have on site.

Hubby and I enjoy the occasional Reuben and in heading to Melbourne I did my research. We headed to Bowery to Williamsburg to get some well rated sandwiches. It was a cool little shop tucked down an alley and, thankfully, there was no wait. We of course ordered the Reuben and we got a Gluten Free cubana as Monkey is gluten intolerant. If you go here do not get the Gluten Free option, for us it was white sandwich style bread. The fillings were nice but, matched with this bread it was disappointing. The Ruben itself was also disappointing as it was cold, with only the one piece of bread that had the cheese on it toasted mildly. We would not go back here.

Next stop was the Aquarium, as there isn’t on in Adelaide, Monkey didn’t know what to expect and I myself was very excited. The highlight was the newly finished tunnel section which had sharks, stingrays and turtles swimming overhead and around you. Their smooth, slow movements so calming, a stark contrast to Monkey running around all over the place, calling out “Mummy! Daddy!”

Tip for the Aquarium – use the parking lot they have partnered with – this ended up costing us $22 instead of $60, and as long as you go to the aquarium you can park there all day.

Day 2 of staying at Ocean Grove we went to Werribiee Zoo. This zoo was well worth visiting – it was still a $50 ticket for Hubby but Monkey and I were free with our SA Zoo pass. This is the same for Melbourne Zoo and Healesville Sanctuary.

A lot has been done in Werribee to make you feel like you are in an African Safari, even the buses are open on the top, reminiscent of the open top jeeps from a real Safari. It is a very large bus with four carriages and lots of roads in the enclosures to ensure you can get close to the action.

Ocean Grove to Wye River (Private campsite $63 – 1 night)

93 kms – 1 hour 31 mins

Torquey was a surprise to us, we had never been and ended up spending most of our day here. A cute small town with lots to do, and the best sandwiches we had had all trip. Mortadeli was a place my partner had on his places to go even before he knew about this trip, and I’m so glad he did. I was a bit nervous as I’m pregnant and there are so many restrictions on deli meats and cheeses but everything was toasted to very hot. Both sandwiches were delicious and their coffee was exceptional as well.

The Torquey play space, was a great choice for Monkey to run around and play in the sand before we got back in the car, but only 5 minutes later we drove past Blackmans Brewery and had to stop again. Hubby really enjoyed their easter special of ‘Milk Choc Easter Egg Stout’. Blackmans Brewery had an outdoor beach bar setup with a small sand pit, lounge chairs, lots of umbrellas and even a mini golf course.

Wye River to Aire River West ($15.60 – 1 night)

57kms – 1 hour 1 min

First stop today was the California Redwood Grove, a popular spot long the Otway’s. Although there were a few people around, it was a large enough place to still feel very tranquil. The giant trees dotted along a winding, fern rimmed, creek.

Many people were there for lunch, as it is set up with a few large picnic tables, so large that we ended up sharing with a family down for the day from Melbourne. This was one of those moments where it felt like overseas travel again, where its easy to meet people and make connections.

We then stopped at the Apollo Bay Fishermans Co-Op and was surprised by just how many people were getting the lobster. We ended up with the platter for two special at $65 total. There were many different things to try and it was plenty of food for all three of us. My partner made note that ordering in the store, a-la-carte may have been cheaper but might not have had the local and freshest fish.

Aire River West was the closest Parks Vic site I could find to Melba’s Gully, where you can see glow worms and we got to see plenty of them. We hadn’t gone during the day (which I would do next time, so we would have some idea of where we were walking) but the path where the glow worms are, is relatively flat and often had bridges or boardwalks with safety rails. Even though it was night time and we turned our torches off we felt safe walking in this section, once we started back up hill I just used my phones torch and that was enough for us. We were lucky in that it was close to a full moon so there was a bit of ambient light out but not enough to affect our ability to see the glow worms.

We had dinner early at the campsite, got Monkey dressed in his PJs and then headed to Melba’s Gully, we knew we would have him in the carrier and then straight back in the car so there was no way for him to get his PJs dirty. This also worked well as he fell asleep on the 25 min drive back to the campsite so our transition into bed was an easy one.

Aire River West to Warnambool ($60 per night – 2 nights)

131 kms – 1 hour 59 mins

Today was the drive with the ‘traditional’ highlights of the Great Ocean Road. We stopped at the twelve apostles and felt like we almost got blown away from the wind . Monkey loved being able to watch the helicopters take off from only 100 meters away.

Timboon Fine Ice Cream was the next stop for the day, where the ice cream sure was fine and thankfully Monkey is still little enough to be happy sharing with us. We didn’t need him having a sugar high when we want him to sleep in the car.

What we enjoyed the most and was quieter was the Bay of Islands. There were many stacks to see, with the largest one home to a mutton bird colony. The moody weather added the area with large waves crashing into the stacks and coast.

Our stay tonight was at ‘Sea Mist‘ a wonderful permaculture farm that was just out of town. There is any level of accommodation you would like including camping, pull up your camper, there are also different options of roofed accommodation. The host Kate is so happy to chat about how the farm came to be, how long it has taken, raising children while creating the permaculture farm and she even has a book for sale with all the information in it! I would highly suggest staying here if you are at all interested in permaculture but also if you aren’t as the space is so enjoyable.

Warnambool to Portland ( Apartment right in town – $308 – 1 night)

104kms – 1 hour 19 mins

We got caught up talking to Kate, our knowledgeable host, and didn’t end up leaving until after 11am but with only a half hour drive to Port Fairy this wasn’t an issue. We parked at the Port Fairy Lions Club Playground, just by Griffiths island as I wanted to do the lighthouse walk. As we were making our lunch in the parking lot (a fairly common occurrence for us) more and more people kept arriving. The car park was full and then a local news team showed up.

Turned out that a gorgeous old sail boat, originally built in Port Fairy, was coming back for the first time in 70 years. She was the last of her kind built there and had been all over Australia but the previous times the boat tried to come back the channel to Port Fairy was too closed. We really lucked out on a historic day.

The lighthouse walk was lovely, particularly the crossing to the island as for quite a while the water is all around you. The lighthouse is also very well kept in the traditional vibrant red and white.

Portland to Dry Creek Campsite ( Free camp- 1 night)

82Kms – 1 hour 1 minute

One of my favourite things to do in Portland, and which fascinated the whole family is watching the Truck Unloaders, this is where big, double trucks drive onto a lift, where they get tipped to almost vertical and their cargo drops out of them in only a few minutes.

We then spent most of our afternoon in Nelson before crossing the boarder and having to give up a tomato and avocado to quarantine. Thankfully there was a decent playground where we had lunch then headed to the a pub to get a drink.

Dry Creek free camp is one of the many available through the District Council of Grant, a lovely but busy site with not may flat sections. There are a few small boat sheds at the entrance of the river although due to the river rising, temporarily one had its floor completely underwater.

Dry Creek Campsite to Beachport ($30 private campsite – 1 night)

111Kms – 1 hour 25mins

Unfortunately we didn’t get the chance to explore the area as I had to make a stop at the hospital in Mt Gambier for 6 hours. We had to check something with the baby which has all turned out fine, thankfully.

This surprise stop at the hospital in Mt Gambier meant we arrived at Beachport after dark. To make out lives easier we ended up getting take out from The Green Room 2.0 and surprisingly it turned out to be the best fish and chips we had all trip.

Beachport to Adelaide (Home)

380Kms – 4 hours 8 mins

We ended up getting into Adelaide about 5:30pm but we definitely took our time exploring Robe and Kingston SE in the morning, including stopping by the Big Lobster, so we started the long drive late. Monkey ended up with only an hour nap in the car but was happy to read, have the occasional dance party and we made sure to stop every two hours. We had a small stop in Murray Bridge to play on a playground and stretch our legs for about 20 mins – sometimes that’s all the time you need.

We, luckily, ended up with an event that night so we went straight there and had family happy to look after Monkey for us. This meant we all got a bit of some much needed time apart and different interactions. People were surprised when we told them we came straight there and hadn’t yet been home but it was easier for us, we didn’t have to cook dinner and Monkey fell asleep on the drive so we didn’t even have a hard bedtime the first night back. Night two took an hour but that’s a different story.